At the Medici Table: Power, Palates & the Birth of Modern Taste

When in Florence, you can see the Medici family’s mark pretty much anywhere you look; without them, Florence would not have been the same. Wealthy merchants, bankers, and patrons of the arts and culture, the Medici family linked their history to the cultural heritage of Florence and to artists such as Leonardo, Donatello, Raffaello, Michelangelo and many others; but also the world of wine and cuisine, both Italian and French, still bear traces of their nobility... and appetite. 

It was Cosimo III Medici who promulgated the world's first modern wine regulations in 1716, the “Bando Mediceo” which defined the production areas of Chianti, Pomino, Valdarno and Carmignano, establishing boundaries and standards for quality and trade. 

Before him, we owe Catherine de' Medici a sort of revolution in the world of food & gastronomy. Caterina De' Medici was the granddaughter of Lorenzo the Magnificent.

As a teenager, in the mid-1500s, she moved from Florence to France to marry the future King Henry II, Duke of Orléans. 

Also known as the “Queen Mother”, she gave birth to three kings of France: Francis II, Charles IX and Henry III.

At the French court, she immediately distinguished herself for her culture, the love for art and books, but also for her passion for good food.

Without Caterina, the French would not have the fork... and the Tuscans would not have the Cabernet grape!

In fact, it was Caterina who introduced the use of the fork to the French court. And she fell in love with Cabernet Sauvignon grape so much that she wanted to take them back with her to Tuscany in order to plant them on the hills of her hunting lodges: the experiment was a success! 

Cabernet thus gave rise to the smallest and oldest wine region in Tuscany, the lovely Carmignano where today Cabernet is now a required part of the appellation of Carmignano that makes outstanding wines.

Caterina brought her beloved chefs and pastry chefs to France, and in a short time transformed some of her favourite dishes into classics of French cuisine: the “Salsa Colla” became the “Béchamel Sauce”, the “Crespelle alla fiorentina”, a savoury dish based on ricotta & spinach, are actually comparable to the French ‘crêpes’.

The "Papero al Melarancio" became the renowned  “Canard à l'orange”… and even the delicious onion soup, called in Tuscany "Carabaccia", seems to be the ancestor of the famous French “soupe à l'oignon” which Caterina was very fond of.

Last but not least, the Queen Caterina also imported Buontalenti’s Gelato; in Florence, Crema Buontalenti, made with cream and custard, is still today a famous ice cream flavour. You can try it in several gelaterie in Florence, for example Bardiani.

Whether it is all true or partly legend, it is certain that thanks to Caterina de’ Medici, many of the eating habits in all aristocratic courts throughout Europe changed: the rule of changing plates between courses, separating the sweet dishes from the savoury ones, using damask tablecloths and making dining a pleasant experience accompanied by nice music.

In short, thanks to her strong personality, Queen Caterina ‘the foodie’ was a queen of taste and etiquette: a true ‘trend-setter’ that in today's world would probably be a popular “food & wine influencer”

If you're into history as well as wine, Tuscany is the place to be! In the footsteps of the Medici's, in particular, is the Carmignano wine region which you can visit with Grape Tours: Carmignano small group tour. And on a private tour, we can add a visit to the Medici villa at Poggio a Caiano!

By Ilaria Miele