Vin Santo is one of Tuscany’s most fascinating, and misunderstood, wines. Made from grapes dried for months, then slowly fermented and aged for years in tiny caratelli, the real thing is concentrated, complex and anything but simple. But beware: that cheap “Vin Santo” served with cantucci may actually be vino liquoroso. From appassimento and the mysterious madre to Occhio di Pernice, food pairings and the art of the dunk, let’s go down the Vin Santo rabbit hole.